
|
DRINKING BIA HO'I... or The Adventures of Timtim in Vietnam
Dr Timothy White
Since I've been named this webzine's resident drunk (well, I've
been called worse things), I suppose it's only fitting that this time
around I'll be telling you about my adventures drinking in Vietnam, where
I spent ten days a few weeks ago. The ironic thing is that back in 1971,
ex- (and late) President Nixon wanted to send me to Vietnam on a US
government mission, and I politely refused (he didn't take it well). So I
could have gone for free back then (they were even going to pay me!), but
no, I waited twenty-five years and ended up paying for it myself. Well,
it was worth it at least.
We (me, my wife and a friend of ours, Melina, who is a
Singhalese Malaysian living in Singapore and complaining about it all the
time) went to Hanoi first. Hanoi is crowded with bicycles, especially,
and people riding and walking around all day and night; I'm not sure just
what they are doing, but they sure keep busy. All night long they yell
and spit in the streets, and seem to be having pretty much a hell of a
time.
Of course, what you're really interested in is what they drink.
As far as I could tell, the most important beverage in the entire nation
is bia ho'i (this last word is pronounced as if you are trying to swallow
an oyster while saying it; I think American tongues are incapable of
getting it right). Bia ho'i is really just draft beer. It is sold mostly
at small stalls in the street, where they put a barrel of beer in a tank
or cooler filled with ice, and dispense it with a plastic tube. It's
served in glasses that are sort of rinsed in a basin of rather
unclean-looking water, but that's part of its charm. Bia ho'i, which
generally has no brand name (every time I asked, I was told that it was
bia ho'i, and given looks like I was pretty stupid for asking at all),
ranges in quality from weak, carbonated dishwater to pretty decent stuff.
It's never very strong, though, which is good considering it is consumed
from the break of day until it runs out, usually in the early afternoon at
the roadside stalls. I saw someone drinking it at 6:30 one morning!
Actually, it was the guy drinking beside me at the stall across from my
hotel. He insisted that I take a drag from his bazooka-like pipe, from
which he was smoking something that tasted sort of like dried weeds.
One of the outstanding features of bia ho'i is the price.
Generally, it was about US18-25 cents per glass, or about 35 cents for a
litre, which was served in a plastic bottle that looked as if it had
recently been holding laundry bleach. In a "cafe" in Nha Trang, I had a
hard time communicating how much bia ho'i I wanted, so I just pulled out
$1; for this we received two huge plastic jugs of beer which, even with
the help of Melina, who is basically a wuss when it comes to drinking
anything alcoholic, we couldn't finish. By the way, if you ever visit Nha
Trang, you should know that its primary industry seems to involve the
large number of pretty young prostitutes plying their trade at the hotels
(this is an observation, not a recommendation). We even saw a prostitute
supply store, selling fishnet stockings, high heels, cute little sequined
dresses, and other assorted hookerwear.
But wait! There's more! In addition to beer, the Vietnamese
are quite fond of snake wine, which is just what it sounds like. Huge
glass jars are filled with coiled snakes, topped up with rice wine, then
allowed to age for a while. As I was told every time I bought some (sure,
I drank this stuff! I'll drink almost anything...), "It's good for men!!
Heh heh...It makes them...strong...heh heh heh..." It was usually pretty
good, and the price ranged from about 20 cents a glass to about $1.50,
depending on the poisonousness of the snakes and the gullibility of the
buyer (me). The best (and most expensive) snake wine I had was from a
little stall in Ho Chi Minh City. The proprietress, who served her snake
wine in a teacup (just one, from which every customer drank), had a very
pretty young daughter, and when I told her how pretty her daughter was,
she replied, "You like her? Drink more snake wine! It's good for men!
Heh heh...it makes them...strong! Heh heh heh..." Unfortunately, I
couldn't test it out on her daughter, because my wife is pretty
old-fashioned about stuff like that, which really puts a damper on things.
Wives are like that.
At the Ho Chi Minh City airport, as we were getting ready to
leave, I bought myself a quite nice and appropriate souvenir of Vietnam: a
bottle of snake wine in a really cool dragon bottle. According to the
pamphlet that came with it, it was a made from a recipe given by Chairman
Mao to Uncle Ho on his birthday (and I didn't even know they were
friends!). Mao told him that it was good for men, and that it
would make him strong...strong enough to make love six times a night and
father four sons. I can't really tell you if it works or not; my ability
to father was surgically altered years ago, and making love six times a
night is pretty commonplace for me. Heh heh, heh heh heh....
Dr White
teaches at the write to him.
|
[an error occurred while processing this directive]